Chilling in a tiny pool of the most refreshing water while hiking up to the waterfalls of Siete Altares, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Guatemala’s coastal borders with the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea could not be more different.  La Costa, refers to the fertile lands between chains of volcanoes and the Pacific Ocean. It is coarse, black volcanic sand continuously pounded by the raging Pacific. By contrast, Guatemala’s narrow coastline on the Caribbean side is a tropical jungle opening where the Rio Dulce, or ‘sweet river’ follows its path to the sea. (Part II click here)

Hurricanes are a common occurrence around Livingston bringing rains and destruction. Caribbean coast, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Egrets chill on the soft surf waiting for a meal to swim by. Caribbean Coast, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Pelicans chill in large groups near fishing vessel. Livingston, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Where the river meets the salty ocean stands the Garifuna town of Livingston. This is a corner of Guatemala so unlike the rest of the country, it is hard believe you are not some island far, far away. The remote location and lack of connecting roads have helped to preserve this completely separate culture. Descendants from the Black Caribs of St. Vincent (Nigerian slaves mixed with Carib locals and consider themselves a separate race) the Garifuna people brought their own language, music, delicious seafood based gastronomy and some still practice an Afro-Carib religion know as dugu.

Chatting with a Garifuna man who in his 80’s, still dives and harpoons fish for a living. He salts and dries his fish for sale. Livingston, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Now entering Livingston, home of the Garifuna culture of Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Livingston is still a small community, though a few roads have been paved and virtually any car you see will operate as a taxi (20Q to anywhere). The main strip from the public dock is packed with Western style restaurants and a few hostels. Shops there are clearly targeting tourism with all kinds seaside souvenirs such as giant conch shells, carved coconuts and sea stars as well as traditional Garifuna ailment cures and natural oils. The waterfront on the river side is lined with small hotels, perfectly positioned to invite in the fresh breeze on balmy, humid days. (See accommodations below)

Souvenirs are often collected from the bottom of the sea. Livingston, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Waterfront Livingston, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

The beaches around town are generally not nice. Most people will take the popular full day tour to Playa Blanca or White Beach. Living up to its name, this white sand, sparkly blue sea water is a bit of an anomaly for Guatemala. There is a 20Q charge to use the beach, money goes to cleaning up large amounts of sea trash that washes unto the entire coastline. Better yet, make your way to Siete Altares (Seven Altars). A cool, freshwater river waterfalls into pools beneath the soaring jungle. Hike up the pools through a series of makeshift paths to bathe, relax and jump off the rocks. 20Q entrance fee.

Jumping off the waterfalls at Siete Altares, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

April swimming in the waterfall pools at Siete Altares, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Follow the river through the jungle up to the waterfalls of Siete Altares, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

The Tour

A lancha departs at 9am taking the group to Siete Altares first for a brief swim before dropping everyone off at Playa Blanca for the day. A sandwich is provided for lunch and the lancha returns at 3:30pm. Entrance fees not included.

At one of the lower pools. Follow the river through the jungle up to the waterfalls of Siete Altares, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Follow the river through the jungle up to the waterfalls of Siete Altares, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Travel Tip:

Unless you’ve never seen a white sand beach before, skip the tour (and the crowds) and make your way to Siete Altares by land. It’s a long but straight forward walk from Livingston that affords you looks into how people really live and work. Distinct architecture, alternating concrete palaces and thatched huts, abandoned homes reclaimed by the jungle, makeshift shops, a colouful cemetery and plenty of characters along the way. Follow the paved road past the Mayan village where it’s hard not to marvel at how different and separate these two groups of people are.

When the road ends, cross the hanging bridge and keep walking along the black sand coastline another half an hour until you see the pier.

Depart early so you can avoid the midday heat and drink lots of water 🙂

Return trip: Walk back to the bridge where there is often someone willing to drive you back into town for a fee. We paid 20Q for 3 people.

Local cemetery on the outskirt of the Garifuna town of Livingston, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

When the road ends, walk over the bridge and walk the coastline until you reach Siete Altares. Pacific Coast, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Not much of a beach around Livingston. Tropical beauty nonetheless. Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Safety

Everyone we spoke with assured us that this is a very small and tranquil community. We never felt unsafe walking about.

On our coastal stroll outside of ‪Livingston‬, Guatemala‬ we came upon a massive and beautiful ‪SeaTurtle‬ only to discover that someone, or something had completely severed it’s head right off. Even though it’s likely it was not a human, it’s still completely heartbreaking frown emoticon I was told by a ‪Garifuna‬ man that people here still eat them as well as putting great value on the shells for instruments and decorations. April posed with the turtle just for the purpose of gaining scale. The turtle was gone on our return trip through. — Karina Noriega

Accommodations 

• There is only one luxury option in Livingston.
  

  Poolside at Villa Caribe. Livingston, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Villa Caribe is tucked perfectly into the edge of the peninsula. It can easily pass as an all-inclusive with its waterfront location, on-site restaurant, elevated suites for the best views and the golden ticket, a huge palm tree rimmed swimming pool.

Prices start at US$115per night based on double occupancy and includes 2 breakfasts and 2 dinners. villacaribe@villasdeguatemala.com +(502)2223-5005  ext.116

• Backpacker Budget

Most backpackers head straight to Casa de la Iguana. Unfortunately it is not by the water so it can get scorching hot but they have a large range of options. Share a private room for 3 at 120Q, a dorm bed for 50Q or spend the night under the stars for 20Q They pride themselves on being a party hostel, in fact, some of the on duty staff were simply “too f*cked up to help”. Happy hour is 6-8pm… or all the time. +(502)7947-0976

• My choice

Casa Rosada. Simple and rustic bungalows with a fan, mosquito nets and separate bathroom and shower areas. Clean and well maintained with an excellent little restaurant that serves 3 course meals and attracts guests from all over Livingston. Very quiet and relaxed. Selling point: long pier over the water complete with a rancho and hammocks to laze the day away.

160Q per bungalow (we paid 180Q for 3 of us to share) +(502)7947-0303 www.hotelcasarosada.com

Enjoying our stay at Casa Rosada. Bungalow, pier, rancho and hammocks delight. Casa Rosada. Livingston, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

Travel Tip:

High Season in Livingston is June, July and August. Prepare for fully booked accommodations and rising prices.

We went in April and it was absolutely perfect. Hot sunny days with a cool ocean breeze, few tourists and NO mosquitos!

Personal Recommendations for Food

April and I made multiple visits to Vilma’s empanada emporium 🙂 Livingston, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

– Across from Hotel Delfin, on calle (street) Marcos Sanchez Diaz is a little tienda (store) without a name. The matriarch of a friendly local family cooks up delicious and filling chicken or fish empanadas for just 2Q each (less than 25centUS). It can literally fill up two grown ups for less than $1. 

Just ask for empanadas de Vilma and send our regards 🙂

– Restaurante Margoth

The most authentic TAPADO in town as vouched for by locals. Tapado is a Garifuna dish made with coconut milk, plantain and includes fish, crab, shrimp, octopus and lobster; all still whole and in their shells/skins/tails 90Q One of the most delicious meals I’ve ever tried. Totally worth the splurge.

Tapado is the most authentic Garifuna dish and an important part of the culture. And it’s absolutely delicious!! Livingston, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

– Breakfast at Casa Rosada

30-35Q Pick from traditional eggs and beans or fresh fruit and big pancakes. Real coffee for 10Q (not the unfortunate instant crap they serve at most places throughout Guatemala).

Getting here:

There are only two options.

1. Puerto Barrios

Whether you are coming from within Guatemala by road, or boating into the country from Honduras or Belize, all trails meet in Puerto Barrios. Head straight to the dock (where 12th street meets the water). Lanchas leave every half hour to an hour. 35Q for the 45 minute ride into Livingston. (Larger and much slower ferries also depart here twice a day).

2.   Rio Dulce

Entering the Rio Dulce jungle canyon. Rio Dulce, Guatemala

Lanchas from Rio Dulce leave twice daily, 9:30am and 2pm. 125Q one way for a 2 and half hour journey through the extraordinary jungle canyon (A lot more on this trip in Part II, coming next week.)

Travel Tip:

Take the morning boat. Waters get a lot choppier in the afternoon making the beautiful journey a little hard to enjoy.

From Guatemala City:

Litegua offers Central Americas most modern and efficient transit system. The buses are large, clean and safe. First class busses include free water, AC, and your own personal TV/gaming system. Fares range from 80-125Q depending on class and route to/from Guatemala City (6-7 hours)

The Puerto Barrios station is just a short walk/taxi ride from the dock.

www.litegua.com +(502)2326-9595

Our Trip

April and I invited April’s dad along on his very first backpacking trip!

We spent 4 days in Rio Dulce and Livingston plus another 4 exploring the ruins of Iximche and the colonial city of Antigua. Watch our adventure coming up on our next post.

Hiking up the river to the waterfalls of Siete Altares, Guatemala — Karina Noriega

April and her Dad visit Siete Altares, Guatemala with their honorary local guide: Me 🙂 — Karina Noriega

Part II of the extraordinary guide to the Caribbean: Rio Dulce and Lago de Izabal

~ An Extraordinary Story by Karina Noriega ~

Check out the Cost Breakdown for Travel Through Guatemala

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